Kadaimugam 2

Continuing the self-established tradition of taking a holy bath in Kaveri river on the final day of Aippasi month on account of the Kadaimugam festival, for the second consecutive year, Anand and I happened to be in Mayiladuthurai on Nov. 15, 2012. The magnitude of marketing I did after I completed my first trip in 2011 pulled in two more participants to accompany for the 2012 edition - Ajay and Satish.

We had our tickets booked in 175 Dn Kamban Express from Egmore on the night of Nov. 14. Post Deepavali dull season was very much observed, the SL classes were booked but GS was almost empty! A late running Ajay was instantaneously asked to push himself to Tambaram for boarding instead of coming all the way to Egmore. 17684 from Tondiarpet was the power for us, running SHF. My berth was an envious S6 44 LB FF NBE 2011 make BEML coach having chargers in each bay :) The train promptly pulled out at 2315 with its typical true-Alco whistle in style. It did a decent speed all along the way averaging 50. The gang was awake all the way upto Tindivanam (1 AM) when it was decided to call off. I had a two instances of power naps upto MBU (remembering when we stood and dispatched from VM) when the unmistakable wheel flange sound got me up, telling that we were asked to take the loop for a crossing. My notes indicated that I have to expect the mighty Boat Mail 102 Up at that hour. True to the expectation, the chugging Alco crossed with the rake of Rameswaram Express - I was lazy; but not lazy enough to miss a video of that crossing. Soon, another loop was given at TDPR for a crossing for a special from TPJ. Surprisingly, it had an ED 3D at the lead (11106). Chidambaram and Sirkali were soon stopped and started. I was filled with curiosity as we were crossing Nidur at MPS - just to see how much water was flowing in Kaveri. You get to see it at the Kaveri bridge just before the Junction (the platform starts where this small bridge ends). Glittering mirror images of tubelights in the full (thalumba thalumba touching two banks) during that wee hour (5 AM sharp) was itself enthralling! The scene was set.

Dilip's parents were kind enough to accommodate us for the second year in a row for a coffee and to refresh ourselves. Their house in Sannadhi veedhi of Mayuranathar temple is extremely envious. We did not want to trouble them before 6, so took a stroll in platform 1 observing the mad rush for Chendur Exp and Tirunelveli passenger, over a cup of coffee. My appa gave his usual piece of advise before our journey, "wait for 10 minutes at the Junction, town bus will come all the way - they have a tie up with auto stand to come in only after 10 minutes, do not pay anything for the auto!". It was 10 minutes then and as we decided to take an auto - just as we were moving out, Anand spotted the bus. We paid just 3 rupees for the trip to Bus Stand. A walk of 10 minutes took us to Sannidhi veedhi. Dilip's appa was awake and welcomed us in.

A quick round of freshening up and we were ready for the highlight of the day. We (5 of us) engaged an auto for 50 to drop us at Lagadam. As always the very sight of a full flowing Kaveri (nadhi pravaagam), with chants and songs aired in a moderate volume through loud speakers, with the sight of young and old, mamas and mamis, taking the holy dip in the river was mesmerising! We felt we were in Benares... this time we got down at the south bank and took the narrow bridge to reach the north bank. One should be physically present to witness the ecstasy that we get while standing in the middle of the bridge looking at the river! One word - wow!!

I was prepared this time around, made sure that I got myself wet upto neck level first for a few minutes before venturing for the thulasnaanam / kadaimuzhukku (dip deep inside the river). In fact, it was the other way round this year - the air was chill and the water was warm :) Took a satisfactory dip for more than 15 minutes before winding up. Took an auto back to Dilip's house and had a strong + hot Kumbakonam degree coffee before boarding our Ambassador car for the day trip.

Day trip - quick jottings:

Forenoon session:

Mayiladuturai - Thiruvarur Road upto Poonthottam, took a left turn in Karaikal road travelled for 5 km to have darshan at Ambar Makalam (Koyil Thirumalam) and Ambal (Pandaravadai Thirumalam). Took a brave decision of taking a shortcut to Thirupugalur instead of the circuitous route back via Poonthottam and Sannanallur - it proved costly as we had to suffer without a breakfast for nearly upto 10 AM as there were no hotels, leave alone a pyoor veg one all the way upto Nadukkadai in Karaikal road. The shortcut to Thirupugalur was interesting, newly laid and smooth as silk - surprising for an interior road in the delta. We then finished off Thirupugalur and Thirupugalur Varthamaneeswaram kovils; crossed the distributory to go to Thirukannapuram Sowriraja Perumal koil. The other temple in that village, Ramanatheeswaram koil had just seen a Samprokshanam and was as fresh as mint with fresh vaasanai of wet cement - interesting, isn't it?

We then went all the way upto Karaikal road again in search of a good hotel and finally found one at Nadukkadai. Then came all the way back to Thiruchengattangudi to have darshan of Vatapi Ganapati. I sang the very famous Hamsadhwani ragam keerthanai 'vatapi ganapatimbhaje' in front of this Pillayar Sannadhi - thanking Paranjyothi a.k.a Siruthondar Nayanar at the back of my mind - for he was the one who took pains to bring this vigraham from the burned-down-to-ashes city of Vatapi (Badami) to his home town (remember the fierce battle by Narasimha Varma Pallavan I against Pulikesi II described in Sivagamiyin Sabatham by Kalki??). I got instantly mesmerised by this Pillayar - no wonder He was able to mesmerise the Dhalapathi, centuries ago! His naughty face, mischievous smile and the wonderful architecture of the vigraham - all are astounding.

We then covered Tirumarugal and Seeyathamangai temples. Seeyathamangai temple had elaborate decoration in front - reason: cinema shooting in the past two days. Ajay and Anand were disappointed that it was not there when we went, but were soon met with a pleasant surprise as there was a shooting near Vizhidhiyur (panchayaththu scene involving Parotta Choori). Took the northward road, entered PDY border to go to Tirunallar. Did a satisfactory darshan of Dharbharanyeswarar and Sani bhagavan here. We took a conscious call to go to Thirukadaiyur for lunch (how can we ignore Sadhabishekam hotel's full meals at noon?), given the experience we had for breakfast. A quick 45-minute drive took us to Thirukadaiyur (I had cancelled my plans to cover Karaikal based temples in favour of Poompuhar based temples).

Afternoon session:

Lunch was heavy and standard - rice, paruppu kuzhambu, vaththa kuzhambu, rasam, potato poriyal, beans+carrot poriyal, cabbage kootu, appalam, pal payasam and curd. We spent a good hour and a half (1430 to 1600) in one of the grand 'vavvaal neththi' (bat's forehead) mandapams of Thirukadaiyur temple near Abirami amman sannadhi. This recharged our batteries; we were ready for the second innings. Finished the darshan at the temple and carried ourselves along to Akkur. This temple was deserted and we had to pull the priest from his house. We then went to Thalaichangadu divya desam - it was closed (as usual and expected). Covered Thalaichangadu dhevara koil, Melaperumpallam and Keezhaperumpallam before settling ourselves in the beach at Poompuhar (Kaviripoompattinam of Silappadhigaram fame).

The beach was quite different from the usual ones that we get to see (Marina and Elliots), it was more like Ennore and Tiruvotriyur beaches - very less sandy area followed by a few boulders abruptly opening to the waves of the deep sea. Water spray was all around like the scene in Anjali anjali song (Duet) shot at VSKP. It was an extremely refreshing sight!

Back to the plan - we had darshan at Poompuhar dhevara koil (near Kannagi Arch) and Sayavanam (Villendhiya Velavar sannidhi) before settling ourselves at Thiruvenkadu. 'Huge', 'massive' are not enough to describe this temple complex... it is something more. I found myself in the same situation that I had been during my first visit in 2006. 8 PM, chill evening weather, running into sannidhi after sannidhi before the ardha jaama nadai is performed. Had a satisfactory darshan of Swtharanyeswarar, Brahmavidhyambigai, Aadhi Nataraja, Budhan and Agoramoorthi deities. Headed through the raajapaattai (national highway of the early Chola kings from Kaviripoompattinam, the then Customs port to Woraiyur, the capital) to Mayuram. Picked up our bags from Dilip's house; had a light dinner at the usual hotel opposite the bus stand; took an auto to Junction. Had a power nap before the 176 Up Kamban pulled into Pf 1 at 2345. S6 68 LB FF BE 2008 make coach. All I remember was showing the ticket to TTE while we were crossing Nidur, the next was getting up at Vandalur as the alarm went off. Such was the intensity of the sleep as I was tired. 17684 was the power again, running LHF, did a decent job dropping us off at TBM at 445. Took a good decision of coming out and taking a bus (G18 Exp) to Saidapet.

Interesting trip overall, 19 temples visited, 18 darshans, 13 new dhevara koils pushing the count to 127.